6 posts tagged “costuming”

Hey kids. In an effort to not be so damned gloomy and pissy all the time, I've turned back to crafting things. Because I'm less likely to throttle someone if my hands are busy. So! Yes. Still planning 15th century goodness, both for myself and for my trade project. Which reminds me, I need to get on sketching hers out. Hrm. 

ANYWAY, those are being back-burnered for a bit because two dear friends of mine are getting married in June and I just got the invitation in the mail yesterday. And, the bride being the fashionista she is is having a vintage-themed outdoor garden wedding with brown and blue as her colors. 

I always did like that girl's style.

Now, the invitation blatantly states that guests are not required to participate in the vintage-them nor in the color scheme. However, give me a chance to wear different costumes than my everyday one, and I'll most likely take it. If I could figure out a way to dress as a classy sort of pirate done up in light blues and tans, I'd be all over that shit like white on rice. But, as it stands, I've been pouring over images of different vintage eras trying to decide which silouette I like best and which would take an apple-hourglassy figure and make it not look like a sack of potatoes. Without requiring I wear complicated underpinnings, because I'm not going for complete historical accuracy with this project. Also, because if I'm gonna wear complicated underpinnings, I'm gonna go whole-hog and just show up in some Victorian inspired Gothy nonsense and I think the bride might brain me with her bouquet were I to show up in a some corseted nonsense. 

Now, nothing's finalized, but I think I'd either go with The Teens, The 40s, or The 50's. Reasons are as follows:

- Mainly because I think the 20s would look horrible on me, no matter how much I adore it. Even with a girdle, my body + dropped waist = fugly.

- I'm still undecided on the 30s as I adore bias-cut things because the of the drapery and flow, but am still looking for examples of something I could wear without having to do a girdle underneath. I have done girdles for much of my life prior to when I went off to college, kids. As a fat girl with Southern and Baptist roots and family, it was a neccesity and a rite of passage. One I always LOATHED. And I hope to NEVER have to wear something that requires one again. I would go on an extreme diet and exercise regiment first to lose all semblance of fat from my person, and I like to think I'm fat-positive. Yes, it is that serious. Which, is funny considering how much I like (properly fitted) corsets.

- I really want to see if I could make something reminiscent of A 1910 Tea Gown or A Mourning Dress from the Later Teens (scroll down to almost the bottom of the page for that second Mourning Dress link) without driving myself nuts. Also, I think that style would flatter my shape pretty well, but I could be wrong. And if I did up a mourning dress replica or inspired something, it would surprisingly not be black, because wearing a mourning dress to a wedding that's not a Gothy one is just. Something. Special. Too special even for me, I'm afraid to say.

- If I make said Tea Gown or Mourning Dress, I think I could get away girdle-free, as the waists are high enough and belted with wide sashes  to actually work with my figure.

- I already have an early 40s copper crepe-back satin dress that actually fits my boobs. Just not everything else since the stress/illness weight has packed on. Folks? I look fucking FABULOUS in this dress. (Which I apparently have no pictures of, wtf?) Even when I would clearly need the dreaded G-word to make it fit right at the waist, the color still looks wonderful with my complexion and the cut makes my legs look hot. Since the doctors and I are working to get my body properly functioning again, my metabolism might actually. You know. WORK again, and I might fit into it by June. We'll see. I would try to let it out some, but it is a vintage dress and I am not badass enough to alter vintage anything without messing it up.

- Also, because if i went 50s, I've already got some lovely blue ombre-dyed and embrodered linen/cotton blend fabric (around somewhere) and a sundress mockup (around. somewhere. else.) that could be redrafted for more of a swing look. Which, full skirt + being mostly top-heavy = balanced and fabulous. I might see about rasing the waist or futzing with other design elements to make it work without looking stupid. Because, even though I look good in empire waisted dresses, empire waist + full skirt = weird-looking. Yes, I have tried making something like that. It was a riff on Regency. Updated. No, it shall never see the light of day. It got cannabalized into a circle skirt I wear quite often in the summer and the bodice went. Somewhere. Probably scraps.

- Or, maybe I'll just say hang it all and go ala Marlene Dietrich, because pants and I are friends moreso than dresses, anyway. 

- And is always the question in these cases, what do I do about shoes? Different Vintage eras mean different shoes choices.

I don't know. Thoughts? Please talk to me about this, because I always think better when folks talk it out with me.

So, I have what I've titled Books I Should Use Toward Thesis, Hypothetical. Or, BISUTTH, for short. The first book was Perfoming Blackness on English Stages, 1500-1800. The newest addition is Black Africans in Renaissance Europe. Because, clearly, I just can't leave this particular topic and era alone. It's what's making my SCA research for possible persona choices and costuming so tedious.

On the one hand, I say "Hang it all!" in the face of being told I can only do Renaissance Italy because that place and time is when Africans (really) started being seen in Europe, and want to make a bliaut just to be cantankerous. Also because they're really snazzy.

On the other hand, the only other silouettes that are even remotely interesting to me are 15th and 16th century Florentine and Venetian. Which feeds into the pigeonhole I've been pegged into, but I've always been intrigued by this particular period EXACTLY FOR the reason that it's when the European exploring started in earnest and the African Identity was made known to the European consciousness at large, rather than just the Venetian traders and the Crusaders and such. Well, an African Identity other than the Moors, since they'd been in and around Europe and the Mediterranean for a bit, but that would eventually be a subsection of what I'll probably end up writing as I'm writing like an academic again without even trying.

[sighs]

But, ALSO because I *really* want to try making a partially corded corset like a few costumers I've been poking at have done. I mean, according to other folks, if I sew them in there really tight and stitch across them, I can actually wash the thing. Which is extremely useful in a corset. Also, the comfort factor is high up there. Only partially-corded though, because I seriously doubt a fully corded one would withstand me moving around and such without eventually buckling, given my figure and all. Not unless I used 1/8" hemp cord instead of 1/16" and put hella channels in that thing. Maybe use cable ties for the center front and to give some extra structure and support to the eyelets and lacing. The figure thing is also one reason why I think the bliaut wouldn't end up working, as I'm fairly sure it's supposed to be self-supporting. Unless I'm thinking of a cotehardie. Well, regardless, stupid boobs. They make historical costuming just as difficult as modern costuming.

Although, I lied somewhat about these being the only periods to interest me. Nothing of Elizabethan whets my appetite except an Effigy Corset. Mainly because, hi, extant garment source! Two, one can never under-estimate the power of being able to get into and out of a corset by yourself. Front-lacing For The Win.

I still need to figure out what to wear OVER the corset, but details, details. Painting research continues apace for that. The book I mentioned earlier has some paintings sprinkled throughout the text, so it's helpful on two fronts!

Another question I'm thinking about, aside from backstory for a persona and a name, is what the hell to do with my hair? I mean, sure if anyone gave me mess about locs not being historically accurate, I could just pull the Black Rage card, but I kinda don't want to be an asshole about this. I'm thinking it'd be coif and hat to cover the hair if I were Elizabethan, but I'm still looking into Italian options. 12th century Germanic would most likely just end up being a wig and figuring how to pin curl locs so to fit under said wig.

Then, there's bellydancing, once I get back into enough to be in shape again, and what historical options for that would be. Or, if I'd just go eh and only worry about bellydancing at Pennsic. Which, thanks to Josh, I have a new way of referring to it: "Pennsic is the Burning Man of the SCA, isn't it?" If this is true, they won't care about a bellydancing chick.

So, you sewing fools out there! I got a question for you: What's your preferred method of pattern drafting?

Do you do stuff by hand? Do you involve math? Do you start with an already existing pattern and then alter it? Am I missing fifty million other possibilities? Let me know!

I know how I was taught (measurements and division and french curves and dotted paper and sloper, but I was also taught on CAD) but I'm curious what other methods there are out there and how folks fare with them. Bonus points if you have links to references/examples.

I'd much rather be sewing than getting ready to leave my house for work, kids, Seriously.

All right. Let's try this out.

So, for those of you just joining the program, I do, on occasion, sew. I've not done so in a while, but my costuming brain just clicked itself back on a few days ago and. Well. I did some damage at JoAnn's this morning.

And it all started because my mother wants pajamas.

blue ombre crinkle silky solid

I figure that this is a simple, low-stress re-introduction to sewing. Hell, I learned to sew by making a corset, so this will be damned near Zen compared to that.

Also, there was to be a photo of the aisle of brocade and sari fabric loveliness right here, but I can't retrieve it from my camera right now. Nuts.

Anyway, we move on to the meat and potatoes of this whole shebang: Corset plotting. You see, it all started when I found out about a (now out of stock) corset made by Lip Service called Beyond the Thunderdome.

Those that know me know why this creation had to be mine by hook, crook, or manufacturing. Seeing as how hooking before I *have* the corset is a little backwards, and they really didn't make any in my size, I'll have to go with door number 3.

Clearly, I can't make my corset be an exact replica of this one, because that would most likely get my ass handed to me should Lip Service ever find out. Also, I want mine to lace in the front and the back. And possibly on the sides. I'm all about making something that works with my crazy weight fluctuations, yo.

As a random aside, I am a big fan of buckles and lacing and black and zippers. You'll realize just how little I'm kidding if I actually start making more stuff again and posting about it.

Over that a way are photos of the actual Lip Service corset. I have more from all good angles necessary for pattern reconstruction. Because I plan to hand-draft my own version/take on this and make it to my measurements (give or take about 15 pounds, so I won't have to make more than one of the things unless my weight gets ridiculously out of control). With all those grommets and snaps and buckles and such.

Yes, I do wear my crazypants all the time. But, if I can pull this off in whatever spare time I have, I will officially be happier 'n a pig in mud. I will also have something I can  use to flounce about L.A. in October. I think that's a feasible costuming goal. Nothing to hand-drafted pattern to mockup to pattern reworking to 2nd mockup to final pattern to actual corset in about, what? Seven months? Yeah, this might actually happen.

In regards to this endeavor, my aforementioned damage done at JoAnn's also included other patterns. Because one always needs a good fishtail skirt pattern.

Butterick 4954

And the fabrics for the corset along with a more historical approach pattern that was on sale.

and so it begins

Fabric from the mayhem that was my JoAnn's trip. My plan is to make a corset. That's black denim (fashion fabric), black duckcloth (budget substitute for coutil), and two possibilities for lining.

Why, yes. It IS between "batik skull and crossbones" and "I'm the GD Batman" as the lining of my all black corset. I am a GD rockstar.

Something else I could NOT pass up was some purple brocade remnants that are just big enough to each be a panel of another corset some time in the future. Maybe I'll make another Victorian to go with the pinstripe Victorian I already own.

purple brocade remnants

What I do not have pictures of currently are the cable ties I plan to use as boning. They're hidden in the depths of my closet at the mo' and I don't feel like hunting for them. But, they're your basic white plastic cable ties. And I feel no shame at using them because One: Not worried about historical accuracy as this is not a historical garment and Two: I don't have to worry about this particular corset supporting or restraining the boob area. I trust nothing less than steel to corral the girls as they are quite rowdy.

There'll probably be more sewing and sketching and knitting babble on here as the months wear on, but that's where I'm at right now.